Wednesday, September 2, 2020

Terms of Exchange

We assume you have read the sales policy and agree to it in full when purchasing one of our rabbits.

We breed for our own purposes and we get first choice out of litters unless other arrangements are made. We do not keeping a waiting list.

Rabbits can be put on hold with a 50% nonrefundable deposit for up to two weeks unless other arrangements are made. Cash, money order, or paypal is accepted. If you neglect to pick up the rabbit within the time frame, the rabbit will be placed back up for sale.

We reserve the right to terminate a sale upon our discretion. If we terminate a sale we have received a deposit or full payment for within the two week grace period, we will refund your money.

Rabbits are sold as is. We are not liable for the rabbit once it leaves our possession. It is your responsibility to check the rabbit over for health issues or DQs we may have missed.

We do not guarantee the rabbit will do well on the show table, nor do we guarantee reproductive quality of the rabbits we sell. We will tell you the rabbit's history in pending sales.

Rabbits for sale are pick-up only, with the exception of arrangements made for pick-up at a show. We do not ship rabbits.

Rabbits failed to be picked up at the arranged time will be put back up for sale without deposit refund. You may be ineligible for future rabbit purchases.

We will take the rabbit back if you decide you no longer want the animal. We do not give you your money back.

Show and brood quality animals come with a three-generation pedigree and registration if available. Rabbits do not come with any other supplies.

Show quality animals are checked over for DQs.

Brood quality animals may have DQs, nix color genetics, that will not pass on to their offspring.

We will not knowingly sell an aggressive rabbit, unless explicitly stated. We cannot guarantee behavior after they leave our hands.

All rabbits leaving the rabbitry will be tattooed*. Our rabbits must have the HB's prefix before their name.

Rabbits do not leave our ownership without full payment. Pedigrees leave with the rabbit upon purchase.

We reserve the right to charge a 10% fee on top of a purchase for questions asked that are already answered within the sales policy, the FAQ located on the website, or in a particular advertisement.

HuckleBerry Farm only participates in transactions with legal adults. Children are required to have an active legal guardian present in any exchange.

*As of 2019, our tattoo pen has been rendered inoperable. Rabbits cannot feasibly be tattooed until further notice.

Classifieds: Mini Lop

Please send all inquires to hbexoticfarm@gmail.com. Rabbits are pick-up only in Ann Arbor, MI.

GC HB's Ellie Blues
HB's Sir Graham Cracker (broken cream) x Carpenter's Pancake (chocolate seal)
blue (chocolate carrier) 2017 doe
proven
3 GC legs
$200

Scott's Rumbleseat
Harmon's Mo Handsome Murph x Scott's Lil' Surprise
black tort 2018 buck
proven
never shown
$250

HB's Quenchiest
Griffin's Caboose (opal) x HB's Dark 'N' Stormy (opal)
opal 2018 doe
proven
2 GC legs
$175

HB's Zum Teufel
Griffin's Caboose x Jezuit/Lynch's Devil Wears Prada
black gold-tipped steel 2018 doe
proven
1 GC leg
$250

HB's 0MGEB7
GC HB's Mission from God x GC HB's Ellie Blues
lilac 2020 doe
$75

 

Tuesday, July 14, 2020

Lesson: Blind Show

Yesterday, we held a mock show with the Mini Rex. The show had a catch: I had to judge my rabbits by touch only, my eyes closed. I think that this type of evaluation is extremely important, yet incredibly under utilized.

By judging without sight, I placed a lot of emphasis on five very critical points, most of which are overlooked by most breeders, especially in this breed! I judged my rabbits on strength of shoulders, spring of rib, muscling over the loin, width of lower hindquarter, and width of overall body especially in relation to apparent length of body. As it turned out, most of my fur felt incredibly similar and didn't often influence my decisions on placement.

I thought that I knew my herd. I thought that I knew how I'd place them. By having my rabbitry partner help me put rabbits in front of me and writing notes as I evaluated, I generally had no idea who I was evaluating. If I could change one thing about the experiment, I'd have it so that my rabbits were better labeled for an outside party to gather predetermined classes of three to six rabbits and present them to me in random order so that I couldn't guess who was on my table. As we had it, I knew which rabbits were in each class and could often infer whom I was touching. I think that it offered an unfair advantage or disadvantage to certain rabbits off pre-existing biases.

Setting this up required a fair amount of premeditation. I had to list which rabbits were to be included in the activity, writing down tattoos, age classes, sexes, and varieties for each rabbit. We had to figure out how to break up the classes, seeing as conventional variety classes wouldn't be helpful in our situation, considering that I wanted no less than three rabbits or more than six rabbits in each class. We remained true to classes broken into seniors and juniors aged ten weeks or more for the sake of development. We also differentiated bucks from does because most of my senior does wouldn't have stood a chance against better primed boys after having recently or currently raised a litter. Most of my brood does felt soft in condition for this reason.

We prepared each class by pulling included rabbits from their cages into nearby carriers so that my writer could readily hand me the next rabbit and reoffer me rabbits to compare animals for placings. As mentioned before, I wish that I didn't have a part in this simply so that I had less unintentional biases. I needed to know senior buck from senior doe from junior rabbit, but I didn't need any other information to judge my rabbits.

The person helping is essential. They won't require intense rabbit knowledge, but they will need to know how to identify your specific rabbits, how to handle the animals, know your judging scale, and develop a shorthand system to write down your comments as you judge. This person's competence is critical, and their attention span is intensely appreciated. If you're judging, you must be knowledgeable about what you're evaluating, but your helper is doing the hard work.

This task is very time consuming. Altogether, we spent about four hours putting this show together yesterday, from the time we started prepping to choose Best of Breed. We included about forty rabbits in this show. Granted, most of my rabbits are not tattooed, between juniors and nonshowable ambers, so I did write tattoo numbers with a sharpie as part of the prep work. Even so, the show took multiple hours.

I found this show to be incredibly informative and eye opening. No pun intended. As I mentioned before, I place emphasis on five very specific points.

The first thing I felt for when evaluating each rabbit was width of shoulder. I also picked up on a rabbit that felt like it had a later start or a long shoulder. And I found one rabbit that I commented had a low shoulder. So width was the biggest factor here.

I generally place a lot of emphasis on a good shoulder, even with sight evaluations. I don't tolerate anything that has an obvious disconnect between its neck and ears to its rise into the midsection. Both length and depth of shoulder contribute to this. But lack of width to shoulder can be easy to miss visually. Not so much using touch only.

Most often, the width of rib, the second major point I judged my rabbits with, contribute to its width of shoulder. After all, a shoulder blade rests on the rib cage. However, they're not one in the same. The shoulder width is at the front of the rib cage. A narrow shoulder often contributes toward a rabbit that rears its front end up when posing because it can't breathe. When I evaluated width of rib, I referred to the spring off of the ribs.

Sometimes, a rabbit will have a good width to the start of its rib, but its rib won't expand as you run your hand down the animal. This results in a narrower rabbit overall. Sometimes, a rabbit will have a narrowed shoulder, but the rib grows in width as your hand runs down the animal. This is the rib spring. The goal is to have a wide shoulder that widens to an even broader rib spring.

In these two points, shoulders and rib, I find most big breeders don't place a lot of emphasis. One of my rabbits from one of the best breeders in the country had some of my worst comments on a senior rabbit for width of shoulder and rib spring. Visually, that rabbit is great! It was a completely different story hands-on. You can't build a well structured rabbit without these two points. The rib cage allows the rabbit to breathe, and leads to an overall healthier specimen. When you don't have a proper, firm shoulder or you don't have a proper wide spring off of the ribs, you're building toward a long animal with the illusion of depth, not an actually properly balanced animal.

The third point I placed a lot of emphasis on was the quality of muscle over the loin. When I first heard this term, it was from a commercial judge on one of my Mini Rex. What it means is that you're looking for a firm transition as you're moving your hand from the spring of the ribs over the turn of the hip. In a commercial rabbit, this reflects directly to the quality of meat the rabbit carries. In a compact breed such as a Mini Rex, it simply means a better bred rabbit. When you have softer flesh or hollow loins, your hand won't have any muscle to keep you from feeling the rabbit's spine, hip, or knee. You want firm, wide flesh over the loin, slightly wider than the width of the rib.

This transitions to the fifth point better than the fourth point. When I mention overall width of the rabbit, it doesn't always relate to the width of the loin. A loin can be narrower than the width of the rabbit between the knees, though this is not ideal. You also want this width to balance with the height of the rabbit at the top of the loin, and the length of the rabbit. These points are a little more difficult to feel, but I did include these comments in my evaluation.

Lastly, I felt for the width of the rabbit at the base of the table. The lower hindquarters. A well bred rabbit shouldn't have any give at the table. Your hand should transition well from the loin, over the hips, and to the base of its legs at the table without any narrowing gives. This isn't often the case in this breed. A very narrow lower hindquarter and a pinched hindquarter can be easily felt in this type of evaluation, and should be avoided.

All five of these points are terribly difficult to breed out of a herd. Often times, all five of these points can be difficult to find even from a well known breeder. For most of these five points cannot easily be seen from pictures or sight heavy evaluations.

Fur, also, can be judged in this evaluation. Texture and density. But those are often touch-based evaluations anyway.

If you haven't tried anything like this evaluation, I highly implore that you give it a try. Begin with a rabbit you already know to understand the process, and learn what I'm talking about. Then try venturing out to see if you, too, can run a blind show. I can almost guarantee things won't turn out as you'd expect.

Thursday, June 18, 2020

Classifieds: Mini Rex

I will start off with saying that I will not be editing this post to reflect updated availability. You will need to email me at hbexoticfarm @ gmail.com to not only gain my attention, but to know if I still possess a specific rabbit as well. These rabbits are in Ann Arbor, MI. I do not work with transports. I do not hold rabbits for more than two weeks, and only with a 50% deposit. Failure to pick up within the time frame is a forfeit of deposit and rabbit. A 5% additional fee is required for online transactions. Cash is obviously preferred. I need about a 24 hour heads up for meeting, because I do not live with my animals, but I can meet while I work. Rabbits are sold as is; it is the buyer's responsibility to check a rabbit over for disqualifications before purchase. I do my best. And that there pretty much covers my entire policy, since I haven't gotten my website back up.

HB's 0JBBB2*
HB's Jerk (lynx) x HB's Black Betty Bambawam (black)
junior opal buck
*incorrect under color
70 USD
Note: This rabbit would have a bigger price tag if he were showable. Considering that he can only be used as a brood animal, mainly in a lynx herd, I'm lowering his price to help him find a home. He's gorgeous.


HB's 0VKRSCC1
HB's Video Killed the Radiostar (amber) x HB's Stone Cold Crazy (castor)
junior opal doe
50 USD

HB's 0PPPM1
HB's Party in my Pants (broken amber) x HB's Pantomime (broken amber)
junior broken chocolate buck (genetic charlie)
75 USD

PC's Scotch
Two River's Sage (castor) x PC's Sarah (opal)
proven castor senior doe
75 USD

HB's Miss Nomer
FFR's Twelve Hour Low (black)(2 GC legs) x HB's Are You My Daddy (amber)
1 GC leg
proven chocolate senior doe
50 USD

HB's Killer Queen*
Winding Creek's Shadrach (lynx)(2 GC legs) x HB's Black Betty Bambawam (black)
proven (on litter) senior doe
*incorrect under color
50 USD
Note: This photo is taken of her while she's nursing. She normally does not display such length. I can provide pictures of her in prime to the interested party.

Saturday, June 13, 2020

Classifieds: Mini Lop

I will start off with saying that I will not be editing this post to reflect updated availability. You will need to email me at hbexoticfarm @ gmail.com to not only gain my attention, but to know if I still possess a specific rabbit as well. These rabbits are in Ann Arbor, MI. I do not work with transports. I do not hold rabbits for more than two weeks, and only with a 50% deposit. Failure to pick up within the time frame is a forfeit of deposit and rabbit. A 5% additional fee is required for online transactions. Cash is obviously preferred. I need about a 24 hour heads up for meeting, because I do not live with my animals, but I can meet while I work. Rabbits are sold as is; it is the buyer's responsibility to check a rabbit over for disqualifications before purchase. I do my best. And that there pretty much covers my entire policy, since I haven't gotten my website back up.

Rabbits available: 

HB's 0IMZT4
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Zum Teufel
junior buck
75 USD

HB's 0IMZT5
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Zum Teufel
junior buck
75 USD

HB's 0MGEB6
GC HB's Mission from God (7 legs) x GC HB's Ellie Blues (3 legs)
junior buck
50 USD

HB's 0IMTT2
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Teeter Totter (2 legs)
junior doe
50 USD

HB's 0IMTT6
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Teeter Totter (2 legs)
junior doe
100 USD

HB's 0MGA2
GC HB's Mission From God (7 legs) x MP's Apple*
junior doe
*I do not possess the pedigree to Apple
40 USD

HB's 0IMQ3
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Quenchiest (2 legs)
junior doe
50 USD

HB's 0RM2
Scott's Rumbleseat x Flip'n Bunnies Medusa
junior buck
100 USD

HB's Snik Snak
Griffin's Caboose (2 legs) x Scott's Seductive Sadie
proven senior doe
175 USD

Flip'n Bunnies Medusa
Flip'n Bunnies Lupin (1 leg) x Flip'n Bunnies Fey
proven senior doe
75 USD

MP's Apple*
proven senior doe
*I do not possess the pedigree to this doe
50 USD

GC HB's Ellie Blues
HB's Sir Graham Cracker x Carptenter's Pancake
3 GC legs
proven senior doe
200 USD


Thursday, May 21, 2020

Lessons: Lynx Mini Rex

This is a post showing the differences between amber, lynx, wide band lynx, blue fawn, and (incorrect) opal. And here I thought that I didn't have a wide band lynx. Ha! I have everything over here.

The lighting is rather awful. It's been pouring since I got off work and I only had the one overhead light in the barn. My hopes are to get better, more organized, pictures later as well. But we all know how I operate.
This is a lynx (wide band) and an amber. We'll get to explaining wide band later.

A lynx is a lilac agouti with certain modifiers to make the under color white. I'll get to that later, too. It has a fawn appearance with lilac tipping. It kind of gives it a "frosted" look in prime.

An amber is a chocolate agouti. It is not an ARBA accepted color. It has an orange appearance with chocolate tipping. I like to call it a "rusty" color.

Both amber and lynx are agouti based animals. That means they have solid ear tipping and colored bands to their fur. We'll use both of those later on. Agouti also have eye rings, nose markings, jaw markings, and a lighter colored belly.
In this picture, I'm showing the band color of the wide band lynx. Her middle band is not very bright or defined (and my phone combined with the lighting make it even worse). But you should be able to make out a very heavy lilac tipping and a fawn intermediate band that almost goes to the skin. The under color, which is admittedly dark, is very little. In lynx, the standard calls for an even amount of fawn versus under color.
This is the belly to the wide band lynx. The lynx standard calls for a creamy white color over top a dove gray under color. The wide band gene wipes out this under color band on the belly, leaving a creamy white belly.

Note that nonextension, which is your fawns, also obliterates the under color band on your lynx. The difference between a wide band and a fawn is that the wide band has clearly defined rings on the topside, as explained in the picture previous this.
This is a picture of the agouti bands on the amber. You can very clearly see that she's tipped in chocolate over a weak orange band over a slate blue under color. In retrospect, I wish I would have grabbed one of my better ambers. As with the lynx, you're looking for an equal distribution of intermediate color to under color on an amber. Y'know, once I have my army to submit the code of development for them.
This picture has a overhead side by side comparison of a wide band lynx (left) to a SOP lynx (right). The wide band lynx produced the SOP lynx, and I believe make very nice lynx, so don't be discouraged when you get wide band or even darkly colored lynx in your herds. Just know that you can't actually show either of them.

As you can see, there isn't a whole lot of visual difference between the two of them. It's kind of why I forgot I had a wide band lynx in my barn. A wide band lynx IS a little darker than an SOP lynx because the tipping is heavier, but tipping is such a fickle thing even on an SOP lynx that it's difficult to tell. That's why you check the belly bands.
This is a better picture of the wide band lynx (left) next to the SOP lynx (right).

Here it's really noteworthy that her lilac tipping obliterates any hint of fawn intermediate color, whereas it shines through on the SOP lynx.
Another comparison of the wide band lynx (left) to the SOP lynx (right).

While I did show a better picture of her bands earlier, this is the only shot I got of the SOP lynx's bands. You can see how much more equal the intermediate band is to the under color band. You can also see how bright his under color is. That bright white is desired. The lilac tipping isn't its own wide band of lilac, either. It's there subtly enough to give him a lynx - frosted - appearance.
In this picture, I have the wide band lynx (left), the SOP lynx (middle), and my blue fawn (right). Unfortunately, I don't have a lilac fawn on hand to make things a little more even, but it's close enough.

Why is a blue fawn close enough to a lilac fawn? Both the blue fawn and lilac fawn are nonextension colors on a dilute (opal and lynx) base. That means the main color shown is fawn. On chocolate and black based animals, you get your reds. A chocolate based red is actually desired over a black based red because it's less smutty. Well, it's the same concept with fawns. A blue fawn is smuttier than a lilac fawn. So you get a smutty fawn to work with here.

The SOP lynx is still brighter than both your wide band lynx and your blue fawn. That's ... usually not the case with lilac fawns. Usually a lilac fawn is a smidge brighter than your SOP lynx because the intermediate band color on an SOP lynx is the only color you see. A fawn doesn't generally have that lilac tipping a lynx has!

This is an overhead photo of the same rabbits. A wide band lynx to your left, an SOP lynx in the middle, and the blue fawn to the right.
It took two of us to get this picture.

Again, your wide band lynx (left), your SOP lynx (middle), and your blue fawn (right).

This picture shows that the wide band lynx actually does have ring color whereas the fawn does not. It's a fairly uniform color from skin to hair tip on the fawn, but a distinct fawn to lilac break on the wide band.

The SOP lynx in the middle is what you're looking for: a bright band of fawn over that white band. Very, very clearly defined edge to the colors.
This doe just had a litter. Excuse her sparse belly color. But this is the blue fawn. You can see that she doesn't have the dove grey under color called for in the SOP, just like the wide band lynx.
This is your SOP lynx. You can see that he finally sports that dove grey under color that I've been talking about. His belly still appears white, but actually has two bands of color. This color should be even. His color is desired, whereas my picture taking skills are not. He was horny and difficult to manage.
I brought in all of the dilute rabbits I've talked about so far in this picture and added a curve ball. From left to right: wide band lynx, SOP lynx, blue fawn, and opal.

The fact that my fawn is a blue based fawn is apparent next to my opal. As I said before, the color will be lighter and brighter on a lilac fawn.

The purpose of this was to see how much bluer a blue agouti (opal) was to a lilac agouti (lynx).

This is the opal's ring color. She has a very awful intermediate color that's very thin. It makes her tipping very heavy. Her tipping is blue over a fawn intermediate band over an INCORRECT white band. If it weren't for her heavy tipping, one could probably easily mistake her for a lynx. But I have more tricks to identifying opals vs lynx!
This is your wide band lynx next to your heavily tipped opal from earlier. They both sport about the same amount of tipping on their hair shaft. But the lynx is still lilac based for a lynx appearance.
Here I have an amber (left), lynx (middle), and opal (right).

Lilac is the double recessive combination of dilute and chocolate. That means that lilac is both dilute and chocolate expressed simultaneously. It'll exhibit characteristics of both. The dilute, or blue, will make a rabbit greyer. It turns the red intermediate band to fawn. The chocolate will make the rabbit ... chocolatier.... Sometimes chocolate even plays with eye color and will give a chocolate or lilac based rabbit ruby cast eyes.

This is an above shot of the same rabbits: amber (left), lynx (middle), and opal (right).

I think it shows how well a lynx exhibits both chocolate and dilute characteristics, while being its own variety.
This is another way to tell if a rabbit is lilac versus blue. This is the opal's ear tips. The tips of the ears are a concentrated color of the rabbit's base color. In the opal's case, blue.
In this picture, the concentrated base color of the rabbit is obviously lilac.

Lessons: Shows

ARBA Website Screenshot
Let's talk about getting ready for a day of show entry show. I don't have advice on pre-entry shows.

Best place to start is the ARBA website. You can find a list of shows under the Member Resources tab, under Shows, under Find a Show. This page is new to me (all of us), so I don't quite know how to use it. You're supposed to be able to search by state.
Some of these shows have fliers or catalogs you can download. Those fliers have all the information you need to know! Date, location, sanctioned breeds, price per entry, judge list, cage dealer, etc. Some of those shows don't have an available catalog. You can email the secretary with the provided email ... or hop on Facebook and find it. The reason I still use Facebook is to find shows and sell rabbits.

The first picture is a screenshot of the ARBA website. The second is of a flier of the show I'm attending today! You can see what I'm talking about in those screenshots.

The next step is then preparing for a show. Don't forget your rabbit(s)! I find it helpful to make a list of whom I'm bringing with tattoos and classes written out. I'll explain classes later. I also like to bring my rug-topped carrying case, which holds my binder and pedigrees, check book (I have one specifically for rabbit shows because I've left it behind too many times), pen, grooming equipment, nail clippers, tattoo equipment, and every remark card I've never thrown out. A dolly or cart is EXTREMELY helpful. Chairs if your show allows them. If I remember, I also like to bring coop cups and a gallon jug to water my rabbits at a show.

Packed Up Car
All of this fits into my ittle car every time. See picture three.

I personally like to pack up the night before if it's not hot out, and drive to the show the morning of. I've left at two in the morning a few times to make it to the show by seven. Showing up early is BEST!

Secretary's Table
When you get to the show, pick your spot out and unload. Then find the secretary's table. Here is where you pick up your entry form, comment cards if the show uses them, and where you will pay for your entries. Usually, the secretary's table is pretty easy to find. This show loves to decorate!

I find it easiest to fill out the entry form first, as shown in picture five. Mark which shows you'll be entering: A, B, C, or D when applicable. Mark whether you're open or youth. Personal information, most of which I have blacked out on here (sorry, not sorry - I have WAY too many crazies and ARAs to worry about). Always include an email, even if there's no place for one!

Entry Form
Next, you list your show entries. I've gotten very lazy over the years and shorthand my entries like this. Today, I'm just showing one breed. The form will ask for a breed. Write it out. Do not abbreviate. The form will ask for variety. This is what color or group your rabbit falls until. With Mini Lop, we have two varieties: solid and broken. Many breeds show under individual varieties: black, otter, tort, etc. Some show under colored or white. You might have to ask another breeder if you're confused. The form will also ask for your rabbit's class. This is junior (under 6 months), intermediate (6-8 months in a six class breed), or senior (over 6 months in a four class breed or over 8 months in a six class breed), and then buck or doe. Most forms aren't as nice as this one.

Comment Card
Then it's time to work on the comment cards! I fill out the bare minimum. Ear number, show (there is not a place for this!), your name, breed, variety (as written on the entry form), and class. You need one comment card per rabbit per show. Picture six is one of mine filled out.

Turn in your paperwork, pay for your entries.

Groomed Bunny
Then you can use the time to browse, groom, socialize, or play on your phone. Picture seven shows Zum Teufel all prettied up and ready. Picture eight is kicking back to relax!

Relax and Have Fun!
ALWAYS ask questions if you're confused. Rabbit people are pretty friendly. We like to help.

When I have help at a show, I'll maybe write about further show processes and etiquette.