Thursday, June 18, 2020

Classifieds: Mini Rex

I will start off with saying that I will not be editing this post to reflect updated availability. You will need to email me at hbexoticfarm @ gmail.com to not only gain my attention, but to know if I still possess a specific rabbit as well. These rabbits are in Ann Arbor, MI. I do not work with transports. I do not hold rabbits for more than two weeks, and only with a 50% deposit. Failure to pick up within the time frame is a forfeit of deposit and rabbit. A 5% additional fee is required for online transactions. Cash is obviously preferred. I need about a 24 hour heads up for meeting, because I do not live with my animals, but I can meet while I work. Rabbits are sold as is; it is the buyer's responsibility to check a rabbit over for disqualifications before purchase. I do my best. And that there pretty much covers my entire policy, since I haven't gotten my website back up.

HB's 0JBBB2*
HB's Jerk (lynx) x HB's Black Betty Bambawam (black)
junior opal buck
*incorrect under color
70 USD
Note: This rabbit would have a bigger price tag if he were showable. Considering that he can only be used as a brood animal, mainly in a lynx herd, I'm lowering his price to help him find a home. He's gorgeous.


HB's 0VKRSCC1
HB's Video Killed the Radiostar (amber) x HB's Stone Cold Crazy (castor)
junior opal doe
50 USD

HB's 0PPPM1
HB's Party in my Pants (broken amber) x HB's Pantomime (broken amber)
junior broken chocolate buck (genetic charlie)
75 USD

PC's Scotch
Two River's Sage (castor) x PC's Sarah (opal)
proven castor senior doe
75 USD

HB's Miss Nomer
FFR's Twelve Hour Low (black)(2 GC legs) x HB's Are You My Daddy (amber)
1 GC leg
proven chocolate senior doe
50 USD

HB's Killer Queen*
Winding Creek's Shadrach (lynx)(2 GC legs) x HB's Black Betty Bambawam (black)
proven (on litter) senior doe
*incorrect under color
50 USD
Note: This photo is taken of her while she's nursing. She normally does not display such length. I can provide pictures of her in prime to the interested party.

Saturday, June 13, 2020

Classifieds: Mini Lop

I will start off with saying that I will not be editing this post to reflect updated availability. You will need to email me at hbexoticfarm @ gmail.com to not only gain my attention, but to know if I still possess a specific rabbit as well. These rabbits are in Ann Arbor, MI. I do not work with transports. I do not hold rabbits for more than two weeks, and only with a 50% deposit. Failure to pick up within the time frame is a forfeit of deposit and rabbit. A 5% additional fee is required for online transactions. Cash is obviously preferred. I need about a 24 hour heads up for meeting, because I do not live with my animals, but I can meet while I work. Rabbits are sold as is; it is the buyer's responsibility to check a rabbit over for disqualifications before purchase. I do my best. And that there pretty much covers my entire policy, since I haven't gotten my website back up.

Rabbits available: 

HB's 0IMZT4
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Zum Teufel
junior buck
75 USD

HB's 0IMZT5
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Zum Teufel
junior buck
75 USD

HB's 0MGEB6
GC HB's Mission from God (7 legs) x GC HB's Ellie Blues (3 legs)
junior buck
50 USD

HB's 0IMTT2
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Teeter Totter (2 legs)
junior doe
50 USD

HB's 0IMTT6
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Teeter Totter (2 legs)
junior doe
100 USD

HB's 0MGA2
GC HB's Mission From God (7 legs) x MP's Apple*
junior doe
*I do not possess the pedigree to Apple
40 USD

HB's 0IMQ3
GC HB's Impress Me Much (3 legs) x HB's Quenchiest (2 legs)
junior doe
50 USD

HB's 0RM2
Scott's Rumbleseat x Flip'n Bunnies Medusa
junior buck
100 USD

HB's Snik Snak
Griffin's Caboose (2 legs) x Scott's Seductive Sadie
proven senior doe
175 USD

Flip'n Bunnies Medusa
Flip'n Bunnies Lupin (1 leg) x Flip'n Bunnies Fey
proven senior doe
75 USD

MP's Apple*
proven senior doe
*I do not possess the pedigree to this doe
50 USD

GC HB's Ellie Blues
HB's Sir Graham Cracker x Carptenter's Pancake
3 GC legs
proven senior doe
200 USD


Thursday, May 21, 2020

Lessons: Lynx Mini Rex

This is a post showing the differences between amber, lynx, wide band lynx, blue fawn, and (incorrect) opal. And here I thought that I didn't have a wide band lynx. Ha! I have everything over here.

The lighting is rather awful. It's been pouring since I got off work and I only had the one overhead light in the barn. My hopes are to get better, more organized, pictures later as well. But we all know how I operate.
This is a lynx (wide band) and an amber. We'll get to explaining wide band later.

A lynx is a lilac agouti with certain modifiers to make the under color white. I'll get to that later, too. It has a fawn appearance with lilac tipping. It kind of gives it a "frosted" look in prime.

An amber is a chocolate agouti. It is not an ARBA accepted color. It has an orange appearance with chocolate tipping. I like to call it a "rusty" color.

Both amber and lynx are agouti based animals. That means they have solid ear tipping and colored bands to their fur. We'll use both of those later on. Agouti also have eye rings, nose markings, jaw markings, and a lighter colored belly.
In this picture, I'm showing the band color of the wide band lynx. Her middle band is not very bright or defined (and my phone combined with the lighting make it even worse). But you should be able to make out a very heavy lilac tipping and a fawn intermediate band that almost goes to the skin. The under color, which is admittedly dark, is very little. In lynx, the standard calls for an even amount of fawn versus under color.
This is the belly to the wide band lynx. The lynx standard calls for a creamy white color over top a dove gray under color. The wide band gene wipes out this under color band on the belly, leaving a creamy white belly.

Note that nonextension, which is your fawns, also obliterates the under color band on your lynx. The difference between a wide band and a fawn is that the wide band has clearly defined rings on the topside, as explained in the picture previous this.
This is a picture of the agouti bands on the amber. You can very clearly see that she's tipped in chocolate over a weak orange band over a slate blue under color. In retrospect, I wish I would have grabbed one of my better ambers. As with the lynx, you're looking for an equal distribution of intermediate color to under color on an amber. Y'know, once I have my army to submit the code of development for them.
This picture has a overhead side by side comparison of a wide band lynx (left) to a SOP lynx (right). The wide band lynx produced the SOP lynx, and I believe make very nice lynx, so don't be discouraged when you get wide band or even darkly colored lynx in your herds. Just know that you can't actually show either of them.

As you can see, there isn't a whole lot of visual difference between the two of them. It's kind of why I forgot I had a wide band lynx in my barn. A wide band lynx IS a little darker than an SOP lynx because the tipping is heavier, but tipping is such a fickle thing even on an SOP lynx that it's difficult to tell. That's why you check the belly bands.
This is a better picture of the wide band lynx (left) next to the SOP lynx (right).

Here it's really noteworthy that her lilac tipping obliterates any hint of fawn intermediate color, whereas it shines through on the SOP lynx.
Another comparison of the wide band lynx (left) to the SOP lynx (right).

While I did show a better picture of her bands earlier, this is the only shot I got of the SOP lynx's bands. You can see how much more equal the intermediate band is to the under color band. You can also see how bright his under color is. That bright white is desired. The lilac tipping isn't its own wide band of lilac, either. It's there subtly enough to give him a lynx - frosted - appearance.
In this picture, I have the wide band lynx (left), the SOP lynx (middle), and my blue fawn (right). Unfortunately, I don't have a lilac fawn on hand to make things a little more even, but it's close enough.

Why is a blue fawn close enough to a lilac fawn? Both the blue fawn and lilac fawn are nonextension colors on a dilute (opal and lynx) base. That means the main color shown is fawn. On chocolate and black based animals, you get your reds. A chocolate based red is actually desired over a black based red because it's less smutty. Well, it's the same concept with fawns. A blue fawn is smuttier than a lilac fawn. So you get a smutty fawn to work with here.

The SOP lynx is still brighter than both your wide band lynx and your blue fawn. That's ... usually not the case with lilac fawns. Usually a lilac fawn is a smidge brighter than your SOP lynx because the intermediate band color on an SOP lynx is the only color you see. A fawn doesn't generally have that lilac tipping a lynx has!

This is an overhead photo of the same rabbits. A wide band lynx to your left, an SOP lynx in the middle, and the blue fawn to the right.
It took two of us to get this picture.

Again, your wide band lynx (left), your SOP lynx (middle), and your blue fawn (right).

This picture shows that the wide band lynx actually does have ring color whereas the fawn does not. It's a fairly uniform color from skin to hair tip on the fawn, but a distinct fawn to lilac break on the wide band.

The SOP lynx in the middle is what you're looking for: a bright band of fawn over that white band. Very, very clearly defined edge to the colors.
This doe just had a litter. Excuse her sparse belly color. But this is the blue fawn. You can see that she doesn't have the dove grey under color called for in the SOP, just like the wide band lynx.
This is your SOP lynx. You can see that he finally sports that dove grey under color that I've been talking about. His belly still appears white, but actually has two bands of color. This color should be even. His color is desired, whereas my picture taking skills are not. He was horny and difficult to manage.
I brought in all of the dilute rabbits I've talked about so far in this picture and added a curve ball. From left to right: wide band lynx, SOP lynx, blue fawn, and opal.

The fact that my fawn is a blue based fawn is apparent next to my opal. As I said before, the color will be lighter and brighter on a lilac fawn.

The purpose of this was to see how much bluer a blue agouti (opal) was to a lilac agouti (lynx).

This is the opal's ring color. She has a very awful intermediate color that's very thin. It makes her tipping very heavy. Her tipping is blue over a fawn intermediate band over an INCORRECT white band. If it weren't for her heavy tipping, one could probably easily mistake her for a lynx. But I have more tricks to identifying opals vs lynx!
This is your wide band lynx next to your heavily tipped opal from earlier. They both sport about the same amount of tipping on their hair shaft. But the lynx is still lilac based for a lynx appearance.
Here I have an amber (left), lynx (middle), and opal (right).

Lilac is the double recessive combination of dilute and chocolate. That means that lilac is both dilute and chocolate expressed simultaneously. It'll exhibit characteristics of both. The dilute, or blue, will make a rabbit greyer. It turns the red intermediate band to fawn. The chocolate will make the rabbit ... chocolatier.... Sometimes chocolate even plays with eye color and will give a chocolate or lilac based rabbit ruby cast eyes.

This is an above shot of the same rabbits: amber (left), lynx (middle), and opal (right).

I think it shows how well a lynx exhibits both chocolate and dilute characteristics, while being its own variety.
This is another way to tell if a rabbit is lilac versus blue. This is the opal's ear tips. The tips of the ears are a concentrated color of the rabbit's base color. In the opal's case, blue.
In this picture, the concentrated base color of the rabbit is obviously lilac.

Lessons: Shows

ARBA Website Screenshot
Let's talk about getting ready for a day of show entry show. I don't have advice on pre-entry shows.

Best place to start is the ARBA website. You can find a list of shows under the Member Resources tab, under Shows, under Find a Show. This page is new to me (all of us), so I don't quite know how to use it. You're supposed to be able to search by state.
Some of these shows have fliers or catalogs you can download. Those fliers have all the information you need to know! Date, location, sanctioned breeds, price per entry, judge list, cage dealer, etc. Some of those shows don't have an available catalog. You can email the secretary with the provided email ... or hop on Facebook and find it. The reason I still use Facebook is to find shows and sell rabbits.

The first picture is a screenshot of the ARBA website. The second is of a flier of the show I'm attending today! You can see what I'm talking about in those screenshots.

The next step is then preparing for a show. Don't forget your rabbit(s)! I find it helpful to make a list of whom I'm bringing with tattoos and classes written out. I'll explain classes later. I also like to bring my rug-topped carrying case, which holds my binder and pedigrees, check book (I have one specifically for rabbit shows because I've left it behind too many times), pen, grooming equipment, nail clippers, tattoo equipment, and every remark card I've never thrown out. A dolly or cart is EXTREMELY helpful. Chairs if your show allows them. If I remember, I also like to bring coop cups and a gallon jug to water my rabbits at a show.

Packed Up Car
All of this fits into my ittle car every time. See picture three.

I personally like to pack up the night before if it's not hot out, and drive to the show the morning of. I've left at two in the morning a few times to make it to the show by seven. Showing up early is BEST!

Secretary's Table
When you get to the show, pick your spot out and unload. Then find the secretary's table. Here is where you pick up your entry form, comment cards if the show uses them, and where you will pay for your entries. Usually, the secretary's table is pretty easy to find. This show loves to decorate!

I find it easiest to fill out the entry form first, as shown in picture five. Mark which shows you'll be entering: A, B, C, or D when applicable. Mark whether you're open or youth. Personal information, most of which I have blacked out on here (sorry, not sorry - I have WAY too many crazies and ARAs to worry about). Always include an email, even if there's no place for one!

Entry Form
Next, you list your show entries. I've gotten very lazy over the years and shorthand my entries like this. Today, I'm just showing one breed. The form will ask for a breed. Write it out. Do not abbreviate. The form will ask for variety. This is what color or group your rabbit falls until. With Mini Lop, we have two varieties: solid and broken. Many breeds show under individual varieties: black, otter, tort, etc. Some show under colored or white. You might have to ask another breeder if you're confused. The form will also ask for your rabbit's class. This is junior (under 6 months), intermediate (6-8 months in a six class breed), or senior (over 6 months in a four class breed or over 8 months in a six class breed), and then buck or doe. Most forms aren't as nice as this one.

Comment Card
Then it's time to work on the comment cards! I fill out the bare minimum. Ear number, show (there is not a place for this!), your name, breed, variety (as written on the entry form), and class. You need one comment card per rabbit per show. Picture six is one of mine filled out.

Turn in your paperwork, pay for your entries.

Groomed Bunny
Then you can use the time to browse, groom, socialize, or play on your phone. Picture seven shows Zum Teufel all prettied up and ready. Picture eight is kicking back to relax!

Relax and Have Fun!
ALWAYS ask questions if you're confused. Rabbit people are pretty friendly. We like to help.

When I have help at a show, I'll maybe write about further show processes and etiquette.

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Lessons: Butts

Let's talk butts.

First and foremost, I will openly admit that I am a Mini Lop person through and through. I want Mini Lop kind of type on my Mini Rex, and that means butts! We also like a good mug, but that's a different story. Disclaimer. These are my opinions, what I breed for, and should not be taken as gospel. I'm merely looking to teach.

Good Example
In our first picture, displaying HB's Birthday Party Cheesecake, we see a decent example of what I like to see from behind. She still has some room for improvement, but she's the best I got at the moment. What are we seeing? Y'know, besides a bunny butt. We'll start at the table. You want a rabbit touching the table with the same width as the width through the rise of the sides. She's almost there. A tail 
should be pulled up from under the rabbit in a proper pose. I tried with Cheesecake and she sat on it again. From the table, you want a nice horseshoe shape. That means the wide base, often referred to as the lower hindquarters, rises with the same width through the knee and up through the loin. A well filled loin, much like Cheesecake's loin, shouldn't have any dimples. You can also see the pinch, or lack thereof, of the upper hindquarter from this view. I'll get to exclaiming that later.
Same Rabbit Pushing

This second picture here is also Cheesecake. She was leaning forward in that picture. Same rabbit, taken seconds apart as I tried unsuccessfully to fish her tail out from underneath her. She loses a bit of her horseshoe shape here throughout her loin simply because she has more weight to her front than her back. She's a tick more triangular up top. It suggests that she could still use some muscle through her loin. If you felt her hands on, you'd be able to feel that little bit of softness to her flesh. THAT alone is why you trust your hands over pictures.

Another bit of information about me. I ALWAYS evaluate through pictures when going through babies. But only after I've run my hands over them and noted their muscle and flesh first.
Width From Above

This is Cheesecake again. From above. This view really shows the width of the loin and hips/upper hindquarter. You don't really get a great picture of a rabbit without the behind or above 
views. I don't buy a rabbit hands-off without an above shot. It's hard to hide a pinched hindquarter or hollow loin with it. Here you can see how much width Cheesecake has in the hind end and how her width of 
hips correlates to her width of body.
Butts Best Lower

The next two pictures to the right are of a resident lynx. She displays the best width of lower hindquarter in my barn. You can see how wide she is at the base versus the width of her body, loin, and upper hindquarter. You can also see that she lacks in the loin in comparison to Cheesecake from behind.
Narrower Back End

The most noticeable difference is from above. That's where you can really see the pinch she has in the hips, and how that consequently leads to a narrower back end.
Beautiful From Behind
Less Rounded from Above
The next picture is one of my blacks, one of my favorite rabbits. She's the mother to Birthday Party Cheesecake. She's HB's Black Betty Bambawam. From behind, the view suggests a beautiful rabbit. Almost full to the table (don't let her skirt fool you completely), beautiful horseshoe shape showing a well filled loin. But she has one fault.

From above, you can really see Betty's fault. She's a little narrow in that hip, leading to a less rounded animal from above. She's far from tightly pinched, but the lack of width in that hip unsettles the balance nevertheless. If you look hard enough in the picture from behind, you can see that narrowness from that angle as well.
Lack Overall Width

We move on to the next rabbit, a chocolate by the name of HB's Princess of the Forest. We're moving from some of my best rabbits to lesser rabbits now. Princess is a little narrow in those lower hindquarters. You can really start to see the taper to the table after the knee. She still has pretty good muscle and loin, however, above that knee. The point of Princess is to show a general lack of width. One of 
my biggest pet peeves in showing is when a narrower rabbit like Princess wins over a more balanced rabbit because her lack of width can be posed into a tall rabbit. Princess is a grand champion. Registered and granded and all. Maybe it's because she's just a chocolate. Granted, she isn't terribly pinched anywhere back there, but she is a narrower rabbit overall, and is easily the narrowest rabbit I'll be using as 
example tonight.
The next chocolate, starting with the pictures below, is HB's Bun with a Hex. Don't get me wrong, I love this boy, he feels great, and he's one of the best chocolates I've ever seen. Probably why he's my grand champion BOSV at ARBA Covention guy. Kind of puts into perspective what us chocolate breeders are working with (I have more I may or may not like better, but I'm just not showing them off). But he's also going to be an example tonight. Of what?
Narrow Base

Hex is my best example of a narrow base. I wouldn't go so far to say he's pinched in the lower hindquarter, just narrowed. A pinched hindquarter will give you a sharp V-shape from knee to table from behind or a sharp V-shape starting from the hind end from above. I don't have great examples of this. I've culled for it. So we're going to use Hex as an example of just how pinched I'm willing to tolerate. This 
narrowed base makes his knees stick out much further than any of the does before him. He loses that horseshoe shape.

Hex has good muscle, but he's lacking just a little bit in his loin. You can see that dimple above his knee. It's more pronounced than any of the does before him.
Lacking in the Loin

Then from above, you can see that Hex isn't really pinched in the hip. He's wide from start to finish. But you can also see where he's lacking in the loin again. He isn't continuous from rib to hip. There's a dip where his knee starts. This is lacking in loin from above and behind.

I think I've pretty much covered everything I can think of when it comes to butts. It's something I've culled HARD for the past few years. It's difficult to pull together a proper lower hindquarter or base, an upper hindquarter that isn't pinched or narrow, and a well filled loin. That isn't even counting the muscle, which is really hands-on only! All FOUR of those points are very common faults in this breed. Any breed? Definitely something I think more people need to be aware of.